Audio tests — microphone, speakers and headphones
Three checks that cover almost every audio complaint — is the mic hearing you, is sound coming out, and is it coming out of both sides.
What each test is looking at
The microphone check shows your input level in dBFS, the sample rate the browser negotiated, and how much delay sits between speaking and seeing the meter move. Normal speech at a comfortable distance lands somewhere around −20 to −12 dBFS. A meter pinned at the bottom means nothing is reaching the browser at all; a meter slammed against 0 means your gain is too high and you are clipping, which sounds like crackle to whoever is listening.
The speaker and headphone checks are simpler and more useful than they look. They play tones through the left and right channels separately, so a thirty-second sound test tells you which side has gone quiet, and they sweep through a frequency range so you can hear where a driver starts to buzz or drop out.
When the hardware is fine and the software is not
Most “my mic is broken” moments are a permission or routing problem, and they are worth ruling out before you buy anything.
Windows has both a system-wide microphone privacy toggle and a per-app one, and a browser can be blocked by either. macOS keeps its own list under Privacy & Security, and a browser that was denied once will not ask again. On any OS, a call app that grabbed exclusive control of the device can leave every other app hearing silence, so quit Zoom or Teams and try again.
Bluetooth headsets have a quirk of their own. When the mic is active the headset usually switches to a hands-free profile, and audio quality drops noticeably. That drop is expected, not a fault.
Which one to start with
Start with the output tests if you cannot hear anything, and the input test if other people cannot hear you. A left and right audio check is the fastest way to prove stereo still works before you dig into drivers. If one side of a pair of headphones is silent in our check but fine on a phone, the cable or the port is the suspect rather than the driver. If both sides are silent everywhere, it is usually the wrong output device selected rather than a dead speaker.
Nothing you play or say here leaves the browser. There is no recording, no upload, and no account.
Related guides
- Microphone not working — fix Windows, Mac, iPhone, and call apps Mic not working on Windows, Mac or iPhone? Sort out permissions, pick the right input device, fix Teams, Zoom and Meet, then check the level actually moves.
- Speaker not working — fix laptop, iPhone, and TV audio output No sound on computer or iPhone, or AirPods connected but no sound? Fix output routing, mute, and Bluetooth endpoints, then check left and right.
- Headphone jack not working — fix one-sided audio and silent earbuds Headphone jack silent or one AirPod dead? Clear lint, reseat the plug, fix Windows and Mac balance, then reset a charged left AirPod that still has no sound.